Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and Kubinka slums
14.06.2018 drunkdick

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and Kubinka slums

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Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku’s most tourist destination is the “old city” or the Icheri Sheher fortress. My emotions from the first steps of the fortress alternated from: "Well, what a garbage tourist. I do not need carpets, thank you. And the souvenirs do not interest me. Even just to see, I'm in a hurry. Shit .... these traders got it. And everywhere with their selfies "before:" How fucking is here, not worse than the old Medin of the Moroccan cities from which I was crazy about ". Even in such a small area, the rule has worked: "Get away from the tourist paths and it will be cool." I thought that inside the fortress there are "hiking trails" everywhere. But nifiga - most of it is an ordinary bytovuha interspersed with tourists - kayfets.
Entrance gate to the fortress.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Here you are waiting for traders carpets and other souvenirs.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Near the shopkeepers are ancient graves.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Heydar and Ilham Aliyevs are looking at you from the walls. By the way, I did not notice the cult of portraits of the president in Azerbaijan.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

The buildings inside the fortress were restored.I do not know how inside ordinary houses, but outside it looks cool. Contemporary art appropriately looks surrounded by centuries-old walls.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Cobbled road - well done. Pay attention to the steep glass visor.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

But the city has not turned into a museum. It is full of ordinary city life.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Someone is trading.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Someone is building.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Someone is moving.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

And someone washes.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

A big victory for the authorities will be if all the cars are removed from the territory of the fortress. So far, walking on some streets is very difficult. You go on the road, because there is no sidewalk and every 20 seconds you press into parked cars, passing cars passing by.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Although some cars add color to the old city.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

This is ridiculous.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

In Icheri Sheher survived the restoration and renovation of a bunch of old parts: doors, handles, bells. Perhaps UNESCO carefully watched these trifles. The fortress is under their protection and is listed as a World Heritage Site.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

There are a lot of old doors in Baku and they are naturally very cool. I hope they will be gradually restored, and not changed to new and "reliable" metal ones in St. Petersburg.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Traditional doorbell.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

If you see such domes, then know this is a bath.Specifically, these baths are not working now. But I visited similar buildings of the middle of the XIX century, but outside the fortress. They still work as public baths. And no extra charge for antiquity - 250 rubles per visit.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

The tangled streets and dead ends are the best places to hang out.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Azerbaijanis are mostly Shiite Muslims. In this they differ from the Sunni Turks.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Not far from the skyscrapers is the Shahid Alley, where the victims of "Black January" are buried (when Soviet troops entered the army) and the wars with Nagorno-Karabakh.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

There are absolutely Russian names.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

In Azerbaijan, they try not to throw bread into a common container. This is a big sin in Islam.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

The hostel in which I lived put a separate bin for bread.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Samostroy, which completely kills the beauty of architecture.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

In December 2017, the old district south of the Winter Park was actively reconstructed. Then he was a semi-crush antiquity. And it concentrates the entire youth movement of the city: basement bars, cheap cafes and hostels.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Away from the restoration is still semi-obscured and shabby.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

And in the courtyards of the southern colorful and slums.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Casket trade.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Local men get their hair cut in a hairdressing salon whose interior hasn't changed for about fifty years.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Abandoned is such an unreal beauty.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

I hope this area will be put in order and it will not be built up with faceless high-rise buildings.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Street food is easier to come up with. The window is a residential apartment in which the hostess cooks kutab with meat and greens. Kutabs are sucked by sumach - an acidic spice, which is used as a substitute for lemon and vinegar.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Patties are very popular, mostly fried.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Cyrillic people are used by people of the Soviet era in everyday correspondence.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

But if you met a sign or a pointer with Cyrillic - then left over from the time of the Union.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Latin almost completely supplanted the Cyrillic alphabet. In the same Uzbekistan, it seems that the Cyrillic alphabet has not yet fully died.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Tea in Azerbaijan is drunk on the eastern side - with a bit of sugar with refined sugar, from tea glasses - "armud". The teapot is decorated with patterns of the Oriental amulet "blue eye". In Russian, it is probably symbolized with Turkey, from where the “packs” are brought as a souvenir. But it is also popular in other eastern countries: Iran, Azerbaijan, Lebanon, Syria.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Another Eastern detail from ancient times, but in a modern way - the eye combined with the bell.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

In Baku, there are real slums "Kubinka". There should not be such areas in a comfortable city, people do not want to live in such areas. But such areas are interesting for their naturalness and color. The district received its unofficial name because of the pre-revolutionary market in which merchants from Cuba traded - a city in the north of Azerbaijan.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Some houses are made from various construction debris.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Pieces, plywood, tin sheets, corrugated board - everything that is found in the garbage can be patched up by their house.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

New buildings are actively attacking Kubinka and probably in 10 years there will be no more.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

On some streets, two people disagree.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

These are crossings between some streets. To pass you have to bend down.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

In Soviet times it was a rather criminal area. And it was also a place where everything is sold and bought. It is not clear from where the scarce goods appeared at the local shopkeepers, but any Azeri knew that if something was not in ordinary stores, it would be in Kubinka. Foreign clothing and products, any alcohol and cigarettes, currency and jewelry - legends and anecdotes made up about the assortment of illegal traders from Kubinka.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

There is no remarkable architecture in the area - the only building valuable from an architectural point.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

In every home, in spite of poverty, a satellite dish always hangs.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Many residents keep cattle and poultry. In places, these cows and shabby houses resemble India.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

For several hours that I walked around the area, I never got to the bottom in a negative sense. On the contrary, they asked with interest why I was walking here and asked to take a picture.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Sometimes not only private houses, but also apartment buildings look at a slum. Unsuited attachments, air conditioners and sewage pipes give the houses that look.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Surely "Kubinka" is not the only such area in Baku. Because I found the demolition of another similar area near the center of Heydar Aliyev.
Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

Baku old: Icheri Sheher fortress and slums

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