Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets

Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Among the comments on the posts about Kaluga was regularly - "and here is a movie filmed." The list of films made in Kaluga only until 1990 is impressive. And the reason for this is clear: in many of its parts, Kaluga, with its two-story merchant mansions in the Empire style and curved alleys near the ravines, looks just like Moscow from the past. In the previous part, I showed the Old Torg and Pushkin Street - Kaluga "very center" with the main attractions. Now we will walk without a route along the streets of the parade. But only there will not be churches, chambers and wooden architecture in this walk - I will write a separate post about them. As about the houses and schools of Tsiolkovsky.
We finished the last part with Gostiny Dvor in the style of "false Gothic" - the hallmark of Kaluga. On one side, he goes out onto a long Lenin street, going uphill straight to a distant train station (see the first part). Houses opposite Gostiny Dvor:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

And their own courtyards:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

As mentioned in the first part, Kaluga surprises with its randomness.The wooden crowded cities of pre-Peter Russia burned regularly, and from the end of the 18th century, after another fire, their ashes began to be built up according to a regular plan - most often rectangular quarters, less often with a fan, a ring or some other interesting figure. I heard about someone from Kaluga that he received an original plan, which was a portrait of Catherine II on the map. I would say, not the empress herself, but her dresses: while walking around Kaluga, it is quite possible to recall the TV prank from the 1990s, when the “tourist” asked passers-by to orient him on the “map”, which played the role of the pattern. There was even a big fire in Kaluga - but in 1764, literally on the eve of town planning reforms, and by the end of 18 the rich city had managed to build up in a stone, cemented the disorderly grid of old streets intersecting on the slope of the Oka bank from different angles. Then a war went through Kaluga, Khrushchov's construction and commercial development, resulting in a city where you never know which view will open around the bend.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

This Stalinka, for example, in all its "pre-war" appearance, was erected in the late 1940s in place of a temple destroyed by war:
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What is it - the modern of the 1920s or high-quality new building, I will not even dare to assume:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

There are, in principle, many new buildings in Old Kaluga, often quite commensurate and well integrated into its landscape:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Or at least built with a "single facade":
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

But the most amazing thing in Old Kaluga is that the landscapes from the frame above and the landscapes from the frame below, that is, the total new building and the almost authentic Russian city of the early 19th century can be separated from each other literally by one turn. And not even the streets, but the heads.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

To this day, the face of Old Kaluga is defined by classicism and the merchant empire, and at the mention of the Kaluga center, something like that comes to my mind first. Specifically, this mansion with stucco griffins was built in 1816, and is known to local historians as the Sukhozanet's house after the retired war minister who lived in it, the old hero of Napoleonic and Crimean Wars, Nikolay Sukhozanet.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

But for example, a former orphanage (1835) in Old Believers' Lane, and by the number of cars one can understand that on its back side there is the concrete jungle of new buildings:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Kaluga architects even managed to fit classicism into the chaotic plan of the city.One of the most characteristic Kaluga perspectives is a wide facade in a sharp corner of diverging streets.
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The Chistokletovykh House from the frame above is already at a triple fork - a couple of blocks east of the Old Torg from Kutuzov Long Street (part of the “axis” with Pushkin and Bazhenov’s streets shown in the last part) branches off the quiet Pervomayskaya Street and Resurrection Street at right angles to the left. And going out to the Chistokletovyh manor from the other side, I simply did not recognize it:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Resurrection runs almost parallel to Lenin Street, slowly moving closer to it as it gains altitude. Gostiny Dvor can be seen in its alleys:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

And precisely Resurrection Kaluga people usually mean by saying "old town". If the story about her got there, I would show Resurrection back in the last part - because in the ensemble of the Old Kaluga it is a landmark of the first row. Do you know a lot of streets in Russia, whose landscape has not changed almost not even for 100, but for 200 years?
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

And here, minus asphalt, tiles, wires, everything is the way it was at least seen by Tsiolkovsky, who went to work in one of two adjacent schools, although Gogol, at the turn of the 1840s and 50s, started to work in Kaluga in search of positive people for the second volume "Dead Souls", which,as you know, later burned in the fireplace. And the fact that the walls are shabby - and in those days the paint was not cheap.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Near the most shabby wall of a stalinka that hid in a lane - suddenly, a monument to Sofia Perovskaya. The revolutionary regicide did not have anything to do with Kaluga, however, Sophia Perovskaya street was Resurrection with the Soviets, and in 1987 (!), It occurred to someone here to put up almost the only monument to Perovskaya, suddenly looking like a Catholic kaplichka. But there is some kind of metaphysical connection: Perovskaya’s comrade-in-arms, her “elder brother” by “Narodnaya Volya” Nikolay Kibalchich, sitting in the death cell of the Peter and Paul Fortress, prepared his own space rocket project, which he had been thinking about all his life. It was in 1881, at the dawn of Tsiolkovsky's research, and so it disappeared in the archives right up to the Soviet times. And so, opposite the county school, where Konstantin Eduardovich taught, Sofia Perovskaya is no longer looking out the window, but from the head fairing of a rocket that carries a fair society to Martians, Venusians and Lunites.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

At the beginning of the shabby Voskresenskaya there is even a couple of estates in perfect condition: on the left is the house of Yanovsky, the local chairman of the nobility, on the right is the Petrikov poorhouse, until 1869 also a former merchant.A piece of the very Russian city, familiar from “Dead Souls”, “War and Peace” and other masterpieces of Russian classics, which not everyone can get rid of from school.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

However, I have a suspicion that these mansions are a little of stalinka, restored after the war: many of their details are repeated too often, and on both buildings.
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But in other medallions there are obviously authentic bas-reliefs. Kaluga classicism is very recognizable, and I would put the house of Yanovsky among the local mansions in third place - after the house of the Kologrivovs from the last part and the house of Shamil from before last.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Next to them is a somewhat differently arranged Medyntsov estate with a nice outbuilding in the courtyard:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

And there and before the start of the street hand at hand. Here, the same cunning knot, as well as at its other end, Voskresenskaya, crosses Lenin Street (leaving to the right) at an acute angle, at the intersection replacing Moskovskaya Street - it goes to the left, to the powerful Stalinka with a tower and the most beautiful church in Kaluga, Women of the Myrrh-Bearers (1754-64 ). The Starichkov Lane goes to the right at a right angle (then it will be replaced by the Old Believers Lane), and the bearded Karl Marx, one of the first monuments to the great theorist, has been trying to penetrate into it all since 1921.However, the original was demolished by the fascists, the second bust itself decayed by the 1980s, and the third, made in 1988, was put on this place, suddenly, only in 2003.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

To the right of the frame above, between Voskresenskaya and Starichkov Lane - the building of another era, which many consider to be the most beautiful in Kaluga. It was built by Nikolai Terenin, a merchant of the old school, whose business successfully survived the decline of the city. Like the Bilibins (in whose residence Imam Shamil lived), the Terenins have many houses of different epochs scattered throughout Kaluga, and in one of them famous aliens also lived - descendants of the last king of Georgia, who plotted the plot.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

The last house of Terenins is a tragic monument: Nikolai built it as a gift to either the son of Mikhail for the wedding, or his daughter's dowry, Lyuba, but the merchant's son soon died on the front of the First World War, and the daughter died from the disease. However, the fact that the mansion was built for the wedding reminds him of the current appointment of the registry office.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

A quarter to the north is another tricky fork in the streets of Lenin and Lunacharsky, which crosses Dzerzhinsky Street. And although at the same fork there is one of the schools where Tsiolkovsky taught, it’s not in the frame, but Tsiolkovsky Kaluga University (until 2010 Pedagogical Institute), marked by the monument to Alexander Chizhevsky (2012) at the facade.In the past, there was no school here, but the entire Nikolaev male gymnasium (1796–1806), to which Konstantin Eduardovich did not leave for work.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

On the contrary, on the frame above - yellow Stalinka, known to kaluzhans as the Manor House, and I think it is not necessary to explain why it was so called. Behind her - and school number 1, where apparently the lordly children were studying. Initially it was the building of the teacher's seminary (1909-13), from which the Kaluga Pedagogical Institute grew:
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At its corner there is a thermometer, and around the corner, a former noble house (1825) hides behind a portico to Moskovskaya Street - classicism lurks beyond the facade of the modern in Kaluga.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

There are few more bright monuments of modern and eclectic in Kaluga than chambers, and certainly fewer than churches. For example, the bank of the early twentieth century on Teatralnaya Street near Lenin Square (see the last part), and next to it is the Udarnik cinema, which since 1967 has been occupied by the Theater for Young People, one of the best in Russia, by the way, so even “adult” performances put here.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

The house behind Berezuevsky ravine, on Dostoevsky Street is not a masterpiece, but at least it is remembered:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Like the house of Leon (like without Matilda on the balcony) on a quiet street of Darwin:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

A charming mansion of unknown age was found in the courtyards of Grigorov Lane behind Voskresenskaya Street:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Here, at the fork in Vilonov and Kutuzov streets (it is a hundred meters from the fork in Kutuzov and Pervomaiskaya streets, as it were "inside" it), I photographed the monument to the Labor Movement (1987). The inscription on it “The Labor Movement will forge excellent social democracy in Russia. Such people as Mikhail are the guarantee” meant Nikifor Vilonov, whose street, and every citizen in the late 1980s, must have remembered that the party pseudonym he was Mikhail Factory. Well, the next manor of the Bilibins, now a correctional school, since I got into the frame - let it be:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

On Gogol Street, starting from the gates of the Museum of Cosmonautics, stands a shabby archive building. In addition to the appearance, it is also remarkable by the fact that in 1915 it was built by another exiled aliens - this time interned Turkish figures, among whom was Mustafa Subhi, later the leader of the Turkish Communists.
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KalugaPart 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

But to my surprise, a replica, on the corner of a quiet Plekhanov street with a noisy Kirov street. Maybe the fact is that it was not local fans of Turkostroya who built it in the early 2000s, but investors from Germany - like the New Apostolic Church, which the Orthodox community resented.In the end, after long litigation, the unfinished building was bought from the Germans, and in 2006 the House of Music was opened here.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

And so we went to Kirov Street - the business center of Kaluga and the distinctive boundary of the historical center. In the first part, I already mentioned that on the map of Kaluga, three streets - Razin, Kirov and Gagarin - form, by connecting round squares of Victory and Peace, a characteristic drawing resembling either the wall of the fortress or the old kind GDR designer. I showed Gagarin Street over the bridge over the Oka River in the first part, I didn’t reach Razin Street, but Kirov Street in Kaluga is a place that no one can escape. People and cars on its 1.5 kilometers, I saw, it seems, more than in the rest of the city.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

I will leave the monument to Tsiolkovsky and Zhukov in two squares at its ends again to other posts, as well as the Church of the Nativity Ionna the Forerunner from the frame above. You are probably already tired of the endless "in such and such a part" and "leave for the future", but what to do, such is all this Kaluga that you have to zigzag along the map, every minute.
The House of Music stands almost at the Peace Square, and after a quarter in the direction of the Victory Square - these are the new buildings that mimic the constructivism and the Stalin.Directly behind them is also the housing of the covered market, and behind it, to Berezuevsky Gully itself, there is an endless wasteland, replacing the dirty market.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

In some places in a noisy street merchant houses disproportionate to its scope:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

A little away from the "red line", but in sight of it - Kaluga Drama Theater named after Lunacharsky (1958). Despite the ordinary building and the "dedication", it will emerge at least a respectable age: the theater in Kaluga was founded in 1777 by the Kaluga-Tula governor-general, Count Mikhail Krechetnikov. The core of the first troupe was 4 actors and 1 actress from Petreburg, and all subsequent times the theater was one of those things that educated people of Kaluga, having left their city, felt sorry for the new place.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

On the other side of Kirov Street, from the facade of the theater, comes the "Kaluga Arbat" - Teatralnaya Street, connecting the Drama Theater with the Theater for Young People in a non-pedestrian part. I never went to that part of the center, although I was spinning around a lot, and did not see either “Tsiolkovsky on a bicycle,” nor did the singular Kaluga (1912) by its architecture near the corner of Theatrical and Dzerzhinsky.
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KalugaPart 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

In the meantime, we are approaching Kaluga’s “nerve center” - the intersection of Kirov and Lenin streets. In the frame are already familiar to us churches and stalinka with a tower:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

But the most noticeable at this intersection is the cinema "Central", based among other things on the brightest monument of the few Kaluga constructivism. It was built in 1935, rebuilt after a couple of times, and in the 1970s took on the appearance of the times of “developed socialism”.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Opposite him, across Lenin Street - the house of the merchant Rakov (1912) in the Art Nouveau style:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

As Terenin's house, remarkable stucco:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

And opposite to it, from the cinema obliquely (in the future, the street is already a gymnasium) - this is the miracle of the Soviet Kaluga, the sgrafitto house.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

Which is worth, I would say, show in approximation:
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

There are a lot of Soviet mosaics, folk ornaments with pagan roots, sgraffito and other ways to revive the wall plane in Kaluga, but this is certainly their apotheosis.
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Here Kirov Street turns into a boulevard and leads to the Eternal Flame with a monument to Georgy Zhukov, a native of Kaluga peasants, by the way.
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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets of Kaluga, parts, Kaluga, streets, here, Kaluga, Lenin, Kirov, street, street, stands, street, city, frame, part, after, city, angle, Perovskaya, first

But we will reach there in the next part, dedicated primarily to the “points” in this interweaving of streets - temples, chambers and wooden architecture.
KALUGA REGION-2018
My space program and table of contents.
Overview of the short trip and table of contents.
Obninsk. City.
Obninsk. The world's first nuclear power plant.
Balabanovo and Paphnutievo-Borovsky monastery.
Borovsk. The road to the center and the overall flavor.
Borovsk. Frescos by Ovchinnikov.
Borovsk. Centre.
Kaluga General color.
Kaluga Old bargaining and surroundings.
Kaluga Houses and streets of the Old Town.
Kaluga Churches, chambers and wooden architecture.
Kaluga Outside the center.
Kaluga Cradle of Astronautics.

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Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets

Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets

Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets

Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets

Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets

Kaluga Part 3: houses and streets

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